To escape from China whilst still being in China was
something remarkable. I have spoken already about the things that made Xinjiang
province different from the prevailing image of current China. It is of course,
primarily the people, but I also realise now that for a traveler, one of the
most informing aspects of their location, is the architecture. The buildings
you see upon arriving at a new destination shape the fundamentals of your first
impressions, and have absolute power in establishing the way you remember the ‘vibe’
or the ‘feel’ of the place.
I recall the buildings in North Korea. They were, every
single one of them, images from the past. The infrastructure so incredibly
outdated I felt as though I was on a movie set. They had less than a handful of
metro stations, and each one was a beautiful testament to the Art Deco movement
of the 30’s. The apartment blocks were, however, in classic communist style. Large,
concrete, uniform.
The metro station in Pyongyang.
I remember visiting Rabbit Island off the coast of Cambodia
and walking the whole island in a few hours. The beach made me happy, the local
kids made me smile, the island itself was incredibly quaint, but the small
shacks that scattered the shore were the icing on the cake. Small bamboo structures
facing the best sunsets. They had small extensions for their animals. They were
built on stilts to accommodate for the tide. They were falling apart. They were
full of life.
I also remember seeing the scary buildings that remained from the French Colonisation... Remember this?
The human habit to create structures is a remarkable thing. So
much understanding of the occupant can be gleaned from a look at their home.
Infinite conclusions can be drawn about society according to what they choose
to build. You can learn about the environment by looking at the materials. You
can learn about the socio-economic status of the people living inside. You can
learn about how damn cold it gets in winter. You can learn about society’s
priorities by looking at how lavish their holy structures are.
Does this structure have large spaces designed for group
interaction? Does that structure use its space for a large kitchen or a large
bedroom? Is it possible that this city celebrates its wonderful weather, and so
this café is almost entirely alfresco? Does your family’s home have large
separate bedrooms, or large dining and living room areas? Could you actually
quantify the balance between form and function shown in the buildings of your
capital city? Does your kitchen have a pig sty just below the window? Why don’t
people walk in your local cemetery?
Going back to Kashgar, I want to just show you a few photos
of the buildings in the Old Town and the houses we saw in the regional areas
and the beautiful mosques. They are certainly nothing like what you see
anywhere else in China. They make me want to go to Turkey and Morocco and pretty
much the whole Middle East so badly!!
How can it be that humans, all of us needing the same things
and living such similar lives, choose to build such remarkably different structures?
Incredible.
Architecture is truly fascinating, and I have such intense
respect for its masters. I can say for sure, though, that had I not travelled, I
would not harbor such opinions. It is only by seeing the remarkable differences
that I have come to appreciate the phenomenon it is. I’ve not even been to
Europe yet, which probably makes you laugh because I couldn’t possibly ‘understand’
this unless I had been to the ‘home’ of architecture itself. If you honestly
think something douchey like that, though, I feel like you are missing my
point.
Architecture is
something that has grown on me because of it’s relation to and interaction with
humanity and society. I appreciate the beauty in the architecture of the Louvre
as I would a painting inside it, but the insight I can gain into the human
experience from looking at how the Masai, as nomads, build their houses in
Tanzania, is what will continue to fascinate me about buildings for the rest of
my life. As usual, it all comes back to the inherent humanity of the subject.
I really want to talk more about this. But I have to go make some spaghetti and watch Buffy.
freaking awesome post - this one has convinced me. I've got to go to Kashgar after I get back to Lanzhou this year.
ReplyDeleteI've been to Europe - it's okay, nothing crazy like what you're seeing here....but then again I missed Italy. I'm sure once I saw St. Peter's Basilica, I'd be like "Holy crap!!!"
If you want a preview of Europe, go to Shamian Island (沙面岛) in Guangzhou. Lots of colonial architecture there - it's a cool place.